The Pier de résistance of fine dining by the ocean
The finest of fine dining on the pier’s edge has opened their doors, dockside at the V&A Waterfront.
It’s a place where the intriguing views caste a different spell on you during lunch and dinner service. It is a place where most of the magic happens right at your table, it’s a place called Pier.
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The most frequently asked question about the La Colombe Groups’ two new restaurants Pier and The Waterside is where to find them. The answer, quite literally on top of one another at the V&A Waterfront.
Being in such close proximity, it would be rational to ask what the difference is – and the answer is views, food service, chefs and interestingly enough the entire vibe. The Waterside is far more relaxed with the same quality service.
And Pier is a journey about the ocean, from the ocean, onto your plate – led by the metaphorical hand of Head Chef John Norris-Rogers, diners get to appreciate and absorb the scents wafting through the window.
Without giving too much away, you can expect more of a human element during the 9-course set menu, one that we’ve all missed so much during hard lockdown. Several dishes are prepared table-side with flair and extravagance which is exactly what you would expect from a group renown for having one of the best restaurants in the world.
Pier is white tablecloth service with minimalist design because the focus is on the hocus pocus of the dishes before you. There’s drama, and intrigue and also a little education on the ingredients, where they come from and why they are prepared in that specific manner. The oysters are one such preparation – they are cooked by the chef at your table in a delicate MCC sauce dripping with flavour and topped with caviar.
My personal favourite was the tuna overlayed with tiger’s milk (a lime infused gel) and a dose of furikake (a dry Japanese seasoning made of dried fish, herbs, sesame seeds and seaweed). The aromas of this dish is so perfumey you almost want to dab a dot or two behind your ears, but you shouldn’t and if you do I won’t blame you.
When the plumes of floating dry ice die down, there is a Calamansi (a citrus fruit) palate cleanser both sweet and intense to hand you over to the next course.
For the meat-eaters, they’ve created the most succulent piece of Karoo Beef which is wheeled out on a trolley with a little braai smoking the vleis. It is cooked to an inch of perfection and the tones of light smokiness add an extra layer of wow.
Whether dishes are served in a shell or an extraordinary plate-shaped mollusc – it all pays homage to the very essence of the sea which is in plain sight, sound and smell.
The dessert of honey, stone fruit and bergamot (an oil extracted from the rinds of citrus fruit) is light and airy and floated away into my mouth effortlessly. The honeycomb twill sitting atop the dish was a masterpiece in itself. A scoop through introduces you to flavours unknown and the perfect bite of sweet, creamy, crunchy and citrusy. Each spoonful worth savouring.
It’s not the first time Chef Norris-Rogers has enticed and satisfied my culinary demon.
He is no stranger to fine dining, he headed up Le Petite Colombe for many years. The Waterfront, however, is different from anything else within the group. Each restaurant has its very own flair and flavour. The view at Pier is something to show-off about even though it sits on the bustling waterfront of the V&A. Because of its location on the top floor, it draws in the light and the serenity of the water. But at night, it turns from day hustle to big city lights and it is electrifying. It is Cape Town adorning its best nightgown with all the shimmering hues dancing across the water.
There is even a view of Table Mountain which makes it all that more glorious for visitors wanting to absorb more of the Mother City’s vistas.
The price tag is hefty but let’s remember the location – the V&A Waterfront is still prime positioning, not just in South Africa but in Africa as well. And les we forget the intricacy of all the masterpieces, with each dish thoughtfully constructed with complimenting and contrasting flavours for your utter enjoyment.